What should I know about owning a greyhound?

Greyhounds can, and do, make great pets! However, their upbringing can be quite different from other dogs, and they often don’t receive important exposure to social interactions or everyday experiences. These challenges are usually possible to overcome, but understanding your greyhound’s background and behaviour will help you to better understand and provide for their needs. If you are thinking of adopting a greyhound, there are several important things you should consider in order to make the right choice for your household and to help your new canine companion transition to life in your home.

In addition to this article, you may also find our ‘Greyhound adoption booklet’ useful.

Why is it important to understand my greyhound’s background?

Before adoption, your greyhound should have undergone a behaviour assessment to help understand their individual personality and needs. However, this assessment is not a guarantee for a stress-free transition and there is a lot that you can do to give your pet the best chance of success as they adapt to their new life.

Dogs, including greyhounds, have three important periods of behavioural development from birth until sexual maturity, during which they need careful and positive exposure to a range of experiences and interactions. Of particular importance is the period between 3 and 14 weeks of age called the “socialisation period” [1]. The experiences that pups have during this time make a strong and long-lasting impression. It is very important that pups have a range of positive interactions during their socialisation period, by safely exploring new sounds, sights, smells, and experiences to develop confidence for their life ahead. The majority of greyhound pups are not given appropriate socialisation opportunities, which means they are more likely to develop behaviours relating to fear and anxiety, such as phobias and aggression [1].

Greyhounds who are being prepared for racing are usually housed in kennels, which can be as small as 3m2 [2]. They are handled by people regularly but some of these interactions might be unpleasant or frightening. Greyhounds raised in racing kennels generally live in a very bland environment without toys or other objects to provide interest or enjoyment. Other greyhounds may spend most of their time in a paddock with other dogs and have only limited contact with people.

These experiences mean that when greyhounds are adopted into a home, they can feel overwhelmed by all of the new changes. Some greyhounds adjust to life as a pet easily, while others may need more time, patience, and understanding. It is important to learn about dog body language so that you can quickly notice when your dog is showing signs of fear or anxiety, especially when children or other animals are around. As with any dog, it is essential to supervise interactions with children and other animals at all times. For further information, read the following article on how to communicate with your dog.

What should I consider before adopting an ex-racing greyhound?

How can I help my greyhound feel comfortable and secure?

Greyhounds are individuals and you will get to know your greyhound’s own interests and preferences over time. Greyhounds don’t cope well with very hot or very cold weather, so hounds who prefer to spend a lot of time outside will need protection from elements such as sun, heat, cold, and wind. Avoid exposing them to weather extremes and be prepared to provide a warm sheltered area if it is cold or a cool area for them to rest if it is hot.

Your greyhound will also need stimulation and company, which may involve you spending time with them outside and/or having them come inside. Some greyhounds have never been inside a house and may feel uncomfortable in a small area with unfamiliar people or children nearby. Provide a place they can retreat to when they need. This should be somewhere they feel safe and secure, such as a bed in a quiet part of the house or outside under shelter.

Although they may learn relatively quickly, it is important to remember that newly adopted dogs can take several months to properly adjust to their new environment [3].

How much space does my greyhound need?

Greyhounds don’t need a lot of space, but they do need a place of their own to retreat to when they want to be alone, with a comfortable bed to rest on. A medium-sized backyard can provide enough space to run around and play in and although greyhounds are known for their speed, they typically spend large amounts of their day resting. Greyhounds are generally content with a combination of a daily walk and some play to a total of around an hour of exercise per day [4]. Backyards should be securely fenced, be safe and obstacle free for high-speed “zoomies”, and be kept interesting with toys or other forms of environmental enrichment.

Can greyhounds live safely with other pets?

For almost all breeds, there will be some dogs who live happily with other animals, some who can never be trusted around other animals, and others who will show behaviour somewhere in between. When dogs show aggressive behaviour, this can be for a variety of reasons and is commonly due to an underlying negative emotional state such as fear, anxiousness, or pain [5]. In some cases, it can be a predation behaviour [5]. Predation behaviour is closely related to herding behaviour and is influenced by genetics [6] with some greyhounds having a strong instinct to chase [7]. However, genetics can only tell us what a dog might do, not what they will do and each greyhound will have its own unique personality. Previous experience will also influence the amount of predation behaviour shown and which animals it is directed towards. Racing greyhounds are encouraged to chase as part of their training and sadly some are exposed to illegal and unethical training methods such as the use of live animals as lures. So, although some greyhounds may be able to live in harmony with other pets including small dogs, cats and other small animals, others can never be safely left alone with them.

If you already have pets at home, it is vital to check that the greyhound you are interested in is considered compatible with other animals. Always err on the side of safety, be cautious, and do not expect that your greyhound will become best buddies with other furry family members, including small dogs. Careful introductions and separation may be required, at least on a temporary basis. Many shelters/rehoming organisations will assist with supervised trial introductions between the greyhound and your current family dogs, before you bring them home.

What will I need before my new greyhound arrives?

Check with your vet or the staff at your shelter/rehoming organisation for advice on collars and leashes, grooming products, bowls, bedding, food, toys, treats, and medications.

Before collecting your new greyhound, you should have the following necessities:

• Collar and identification tag with your greyhound’s name & your phone number
• Front-attaching harness and leash
• Water bowls
• Food bowl
• Dog or puppy food appropriate for their life stage (a high quality balanced premium commercial dog food is recommended)
• Comfortable bedding (may need more than one bed/basket for different rooms in the house and/or for outside)
• An outside sheltered area
• Dog coat
• Toys, rewards and treats
• Pooper scooper
• Grooming brush or comb
• Flea and tick control products
• Worm control product
• Muzzle (if needed by your individual dog or if required by your local council or state government)

How can I help my adopted greyhound settle into their new home?

In their new home, there will be many unfamiliar sights and sounds for your newly adopted greyhound to adapt to. It is essential that you let them control the pace of their adjustment, and that you keep a look out for behavioural signs that they may be tense, uncomfortable, or afraid. By recognising these signs quickly, you can minimise the stress of new situations, allowing them to relax and recover rather than feel overwhelmed. Read this article on recognising signs of discomfort or stress in your greyhound.

Learning a new name

It is important for your new greyhound to learn their name as quickly as possible as this will help with training and general interactions. A simple way to do this is to say their name enthusiastically and follow this immediately with a small treat they enjoy. If you do this repeatedly and regularly, they will quickly listen out for their new name. Once you notice a consistent response you can call their name and wait until they look at you before treating them. Use their name whenever you interact and particularly when you reward them. This will help to quickly foster a positive association with their name and a positive relationship with you.

Familiarisation and socialisation

It is important to introduce your new greyhound to unfamiliar objects and environments in a calm, positive, and patient manner. New experiences that are frightening or very stressful can cause long-term effects [8] so aim to make the experience as relaxed and enjoyable as possible. Allow plenty of time for them to explore, whilst keeping noise and movement to a minimum. If you have a yard, make sure it is secure before you let them explore. Keep them on the leash to begin with, so that you are close by for reassurance and can direct them away from anything that might pose a risk.

It is a good idea to stagger the timing of new experiences so that your greyhound doesn’t become overwhelmed. Think of the things that you would like them to get used to. This probably includes things like meeting strangers, hearing the vacuum cleaner, meeting new dogs, walking on different surfaces, and travelling in a car. Introduce these at different times and build up their exposure gradually. For example, to get them used to the vacuum cleaner, you can put the vacuum out and let your greyhound sniff it. Praise and reward them when they are calm. Then, turn it on while praising and rewarding calm behaviour. After that, start using it but not towards their direction. These steps could be spread out over a few different sessions, taking into account how calm and relaxed your greyhound appears. Always provide them with a location they can retreat to when they feel uncomfortable as this will give them a sense of control over the situation. If they show signs of fear or discomfort, then discontinue immediately and leave for a day or two before starting again at the previous step.

Slowly allow your greyhound to get used to glass doors, slippery floors (mats can help to start with), and stairs. Again, be patient and forgiving as they learn about their new environment. Being gentle and giving praise and rewards for desirable behaviour will quickly establish trust and a strong bond with you. All family members should be consistent in showing kindness and respect so that your new greyhound has the reassurance they need. Be patient and never punish your greyhound, as punishment will erode their relationship with you and increases the risk of behaviour problems including biting.

Your greyhound will need time to adjust to many new noises such as televisions, phones and doorbells ringing, and the usual banter of family life. The good news is that once you recognise this, you can help by slowly introducing unfamiliar noises, sights, and sounds.

The following video ‘Settling in your new adopted dog’ has some helpful general tips from Dr Katrina Warren.

Introducing a greyhound to an existing dog

It is advisable to take your existing dog(s) to the adoption centre for a supervised introduction with your new greyhound. This will allow them to meet on fairly neutral ground to avoid territorial behaviour. Check with the shelter first to confirm that this can be done.

If this is not possible, the next best option is to arrange for someone to take your dog(s) to a park to meet your new greyhound after you leave the centre but before you get home. It is best if the park is within walking distance from your home. This way, you can walk to the park for a canine meet and greet for 15-20 minutes, including an on-leash walk for all dogs around the park before heading home together. Ensure your new greyhound is on leash at all times because if they escape, you may not be able to run fast enough to catch them!

Once home, ensure separate sleeping and eating areas are established and remove any toys or objects, including bones that may create conflict. All interactions should be closely supervised, with the dogs not left alone together until you are very sure that there is no danger to either. At dinner time, feed both dogs in completely separate areas with no physical or visual contact, so they can eat comfortably without competition or guarding.

Introducing a greyhound to an existing cat

Ideally, your new greyhound should have undergone some preliminary assessment as to whether they are likely to be suitable to live with a cat. However, it is recommended that new owners seek professional advice from an authorised Greenhounds Assessor or a veterinary behaviourist/certified applied animal behaviourist to help determine the likely success or risks of introducing your greyhound to your cat and to advise on the safest way to approach introductions and management. Sometimes, it might be safer to ensure that your greyhound is always kept physically separated from your cat rather than risking potentially unsafe interactions.

Coping with stairs

Stairs are a completely new challenge for many greyhounds. Most greyhounds have never come across them or learned how to navigate them as a puppy, and larger dogs can struggle to negotiate stairs easily. But there are some easy things you can do to help them conquer this. Begin with a short, wide flight of stairs to build their confidence, and ensure that the steps have good tread to avoid slips. You can encourage them to approach the stairs by placing treats on the steps. Allow them to try at their own pace as forcing or rushing them will frighten them and make it more difficult to get them used to stairs. If their experiences with stairs are positive, over time they will naturally become more confident to go up and down more steps. Don’t keep trying if they become agitated as this will lead to them making an unpleasant or fearful association with stairs, and their overall progress will also become slower. Similarly, avoid rushing them downstairs as they may suffer a serious injury. Let them follow you slowly to give them confidence to go down each step at a safe pace. By using the same short, wide and easy flight of stairs they will be able to better control their descent. Be patient and reward them every step of the way. This process will be gradual (potentially over weeks), and you should always end any training session on a good note. Once the easy steps are mastered, a higher flight of stairs can be attempted. But remember, your greyhound will attempt them at their own pace and when they are sufficiently motivated to go where the steps will take them.

Having their own bed

It is best to set up beds for your greyhound both indoors and outdoors so that they can decide where they are most comfortable. Initially this may be outdoors, but it could change later. If it is safe, leave the back door open, so they can easily move between the two areas. Placement of their bed is important. It should be somewhere quiet and peaceful away from heavy foot traffic (not near doorways or passageways), noisy spots (not near television, speakers, and children’s play areas), or very active areas such as the kitchen. Beds with defined sides can provide extra reassurance and security. It is worthwhile training your greyhound through cues and rewards to go to their bed, or leave their bed as needed.

Ensure that family members don’t sit or play on your greyhound’s bed as it should be somewhere that they can retreat to when they need some space. It is also not recommended for your greyhound to sleep on your bed or a couch. Sleeping greyhounds can be easily startled into waking if someone approaches their bed, makes a noise, or touches them, and as part of this startle response they can snap before they are properly awake. As for any dog, it is best to wake them calmly by gently calling their name from a distance, and only if needed. Greyhounds sometimes sleep with their eyes open so it can be difficult to tell if they are awake unless they raise their head from the bed. Do not try and address sleep startling by repeatedly approaching them on their bed or by using any form of punishment. This approach is dangerous and is likely to make the problem worse by strengthening any negative feelings that they have. If your greyhound shows sleep startling or any type of aggression, it is recommended that you seek advice from a veterinary behaviourist/certified applied animal behaviourist who uses reward-based training.

Going to bed on the first night

When the excitement of their first day in a new home is over, your new greyhound may be very tired but still restless, especially when everything is quiet, and they are left alone at bedtime. To prepare them for sleep allow up to an hour before bedtime to help settle them in for the night. Start by reading a book or watching TV nearby and wait until they are settled, then briefly leave the room so that you are just out of sight and return immediately. Repeat this several times, ensuring that you don’t leave again until they are re-settled. Slowly increase the time away, starting with a couple of seconds and increasing to a minute. This helps them to understand that you are still around even if they cannot see you. The aim is to keep doing this until they remain settled even after you spend longer time out of sight. You may need to keep the TV and a dull light or lamp on initially to provide extra reassurance. If they aren’t settling, you may need to try a different place in the house, such as a secure spot where they can see you. Over time this can be moved to a different area once they are more settled in their new home. Be patient with them as they adjust to this complete life change. It is common for newly adopted dogs, of any breed, to take several months to fully adjust to a new home [3].

How do I best care for my newly adopted greyhound?

There are many things to consider to ensure your greyhound is healthy. This includes a proper diet, vaccinations, parasite control, and keeping your greyhound cool in the summer and warm in the winter.

Diet

The basis of your greyhound’s diet should be a high quality balanced premium commercial dog food that is appropriate for their life stage (e.g., adolescent, adult, senior) and health status. To avoid gastrointestinal upsets, it is best to continue feeding the diet that your greyhound ate at the adoption centre and, if you are changing diet, gradually transition to the new diet over 7-10 days.

Never feed your greyhound just before or after exercise as this can cause gastric torsion (twisted stomach), which is very painful and can be fatal if left untreated. Signs to look for are bloating, abdominal swelling, restlessness and vomiting. This is a veterinary emergency, and treatment should be sought immediately.

When choosing a new dog food, you should check the label to make sure the food meets the Australian Standard for the manufacturing and marketing of pet food (AS5812) or an [9] equivalent international standard.

The following articles have additional useful information about feeding your dog:

• What should I feed my dog?
• What should I know before feeding dog treats?
• Why is chocolate toxic to dogs and other animals?
• Should I feed bones to my dog?

Body condition and weight

Greyhounds are naturally slim, but a thin fat layer should cover the body so that ribs and the tip of the hips are just visible. This means that they can be a couple of kilograms heavier than what their racing weight was (if they raced) but it is essential not to over-feed them as overweight dogs have a greater risk of health problems. From a top or side view, you should be able to see their ‘waist’.

Vaccination

Like any other dog, your greyhound needs vaccination against the main canine diseases including parvovirus, distemper, and hepatitis. Greyhounds adopted from a reputable rehoming group will have been vaccinated against these and Kennel Cough (‘C5 vaccine’). Check to make sure your greyhound has been vaccinated and when their next vaccination is due.

Make sure you keep the vaccination certificate and present it to your veterinarian at the time of the next vaccination.

For more information, see this article on vaccinations for dogs and this article on canine parvovirus.

Intestinal worms

The most common intestinal worms in dogs are roundworms, hookworms, whipworms, and tapeworms including hydatid tapeworm. Some of these are zoonotic [10,11], which means they can be transmitted to people.

Intestinal worms, in particular hookworm, are prevalent in greyhound racing and training establishments [12]. Hookworm larvae can migrate from the gut and lay dormant in tissues such as muscles, where they are not affected by worming medication. These dormant larvae can become mobile and move back into the gut during times of stress, e.g., rehoming. These latent infections can persist for years. Signs of hookworm infestation can be varied but often include weight loss, loss of appetite, and recurrent diarrhoea which may contain blood. Other clinical signs include coughing, weakness, a painful abdomen or just a general failure to thrive. Thus, although it is generally advised to worm your pet routinely for intestinal worms every three months, it is best to consult your vet for treatment advice, particularly if your greyhound is showing any of the above symptoms. Be sure to find out from the adoption centre when your greyhound received their last worming treatment and which medication they received.

Heartworm

Heartworms can cause severe disease as they live in the heart, lungs, and associated blood vessels. This disease is spread by mosquitoes and so may be difficult to prevent. Contact your local veterinarian to find out if heartworm is a risk in your area and, if it is, then it is essential that your dog receives preventative treatment. However, this must not be given until a blood test is done to ensure your dog is not already infected, as some preventative treatments can cause a reaction if given to dogs who already have heartworm. The organisation you adopted your greyhound from may have already tested them for heartworm. If your dog lives in, or came from, a heartworm-affected area, it is a good idea to talk to your veterinarian about how you can best protect your greyhound.

Fleas and ticks

Fleas are external parasites that live on the skin and survive by feeding on the blood of animals. Fleas can cause intense skin irritation leading to scratching and skin problems. It is likely that you will need to use a preventative flea product on an ongoing basis throughout the year to prevent infestation. It is also important to check for fleas regularly. Your veterinarian can give you advice about the most suitable product for your pet and how often this should be applied. Flea treatments include spot-on applications, sprays, oral medications, collars and shampoos. If you are treating an existing infestation, all bedding must be washed and the environment treated at the same time your dog is treated.

For more information, see this article on flea control for pets.

If you live in an area where there are paralysis ticks, then it is essential to use regular preventative treatments and also check your dog for ticks every day. Your veterinarian can give you advice about the most suitable product for your pet and how often this should be applied.

For more information on ticks read this article on tick prevention.

Grass seeds

During spring, grass seeds/awns can become embedded between your greyhound’s toes or become lodged in their ear canals. When walking, avoid areas with long grass which have seeds. Signs that your greyhound might have a grass seed problem include lameness, paw licking and swelling of the affected area and head shaking, tilting and scratching an ear if a seed has lodged inside the ear. If you noticed these signs, please seek veterinary advice as soon as possible.

Hot/cold conditions

Greyhounds have very little body fat and, therefore, are prone to cold stress. If your greyhound curls up in a tight ball, you know that they are feeling the cold. If the temperature is below 15°C, a dog coat is essential. Be sure to remove the coat when they come inside to a warm house or if they go for a run. As a general rule of thumb, if you require a coat, so will your greyhound.

In summer, dogs can become heat stressed as panting may not dissipate their body heat sufficiently. When the temperature exceeds 35°C it is best to bring dogs inside to air conditioning. If dogs need to remain outside, they must have generous amounts of shade and cool water. A paddling pool full of water is a great way to help them cool off.

Grooming and nail care

Greyhounds do not need daily brushing and should only be washed if they need it, which is usually rare. If a wash is needed, be sure to use shampoo for dogs, not humans, with no or low scent.

Your greyhound’s nails may need to be clipped, although this is less likely to be needed if you frequently walk your greyhound on a hard surface such as the pavement. Check with your veterinarian if your greyhound’s nails need to be clipped on a regular basis. For more information on nail trimming for dogs see this article from RSPCA WA: ‘Tricks of the trimming trade—how you can make nail trimming a paw-sitive experience’.

Dental care

Greyhounds often suffer dental problems. Tartar build-up is common which can lead to gum disease, so be sure to ask your veterinarian about the condition of your greyhound’s teeth and how you can best take care of them to help prevent serious problems developing.

For more information see this article on caring for your pet’s teeth.

Foot problems

Some greyhounds may be prone to foot problems, especially if they are older and have been housed on concrete most of their lives. Look out for lameness, reluctance to walk, as well as paw chewing as these are signs that suggest something could be wrong – it is best to seek veterinary advice as soon as possible.

Exercise

Not all greyhounds want a lot of exercise, so it is best to gauge what your individual dog needs. An hour a day is recommended and this is best broken up into shorter periods of exercise and active play. Greyhounds are built for speed but tend to lack stamina. If you want a jogging partner then their fitness will need to be built up gradually with short runs to start with. Always keep a firm hold of the leash and be aware of any potential hazards which may arise. Any dog should be under the control of their owner or a responsible person over 16 years of age.

Never allow your greyhound off leash unless they are in a very secure area and have good recall. Off-leash parks (even fenced ones) can be risky, especially if small and large dogs are not separated. If you and your greyhound are looking for the company of other greyhounds, there are greyhound walking groups in most capital cities with more likely to be set up in the future or you could start your own.

In terms of equipment, it is recommended to use a front-attaching harness instead of a flat collar, as this avoids placing pressure on the neck and the possibility of your greyhound slipping their collar and escaping. The most important thing is to ensure the harness is fitted correctly so that it sits in the right position and is not too tight or loose. Head halters are not recommended as these are not comfortable for many dogs and can’t be used if a muzzle is required. Extendable leashes are also not recommended as they can seriously injure your dog or yourself and can snap resulting in a greyhound on the loose. If your greyhound is required to wear a muzzle in your area while in public, this should be a box/basket style muzzle, which allows the dog to freely open their mouth and pant as needed for thermoregulation. More information is available in this article on muzzle requirements for greyhounds.

Enrichment

In addition to physical exercise, it is essential for your greyhound’s welfare that they have positive mental stimulation. Bored dogs can also become destructive by digging, chewing, and barking. Enrichment comes in many forms and may include toys and specially designed food mazes. Treat balls and hollow toys (e.g., KONGs) are also fun for dogs and by placing food inside they can be engaged for quite a while as they work to dislodge the food. Frozen food ice blocks can also provide good entertainment during hot weather. Social interaction and positive reinforcement training also count as enrichment! Make sure that any toys or activities are safe for your pet and that they are enjoying the experience. Toys and activities can be rotated to maintain interest. Remember that food given during training or enrichment form part of their daily diet so keep track of treats to avoid overfeeding.

Essential documents and certificates

It is a good idea to keep all relevant documents concerning your new greyhound in one safe place with copies stored digitally as a backup. Also keep your veterinarian’s contact details and your dog’s microchip number somewhere handy in case of unexpected emergencies. A calendar for reminders such as vaccinations or their annual health check-up is useful too. If you live in a bushfire or flood-prone area, consider keeping your dog’s records with any important personal documents you might need to take if you need to evacuate. For more information on preparing for emergencies, see this article.

Desexing

Greyhounds adopted from a reputable rehoming group will have been desexed. Ensure you retain their desexing certificate as this may be required for a reduction in council registration fees.

Microchipping

Greyhounds adopted from a reputable rehoming group will have been microchipped. Microchips contain unique identification numbers which can be linked to you through microchip databases. Ensure that you know which database/s your greyhound’s details have been recorded in and keep the database informed if you move or change your contact details so that it is easier to be reunited with your dog if they get lost. Microchipping is compulsory in some jurisdictions, so when you apply for registration, you will need to present the microchip form.

Council registration

Check with your local council on the registration requirements in your area. Once registered retain the details in case your dog loses their registration tag and you need to order another. Some boarding kennels may also require dogs to be registered.

What is the best way to train my adopted greyhound?

Kind and humane training helps your dog to fit into your family well and become a good canine companion. It is one of the most important responsibilities for every owner that supports your dog to have happy and safe interactions with familiar and unfamiliar people, and with other dogs. It is crucial to understand that training should only be done using modern, reward-based methods. This type of training is also frequently called “positive reinforcement training”. Reward-based training focuses on effective communication with your dog so they understand what behaviour you would like and that they will receive a reward when that behaviour is performed. Punishment is an outdated method of training and is not used in reward-based approaches.

Punishment[*] includes any method that the dog finds aversive including water sprays, check/choker collars, noisy rattlers, and even yelling. For more information, this article highlights the risks associated with using punishment in training.

Reward-based methods are effective because behaviour is driven by the emotions that a dog is experiencing. Punishment creates fear and anxiety in dogs and damages the relationship between owner and pet. Many scientific studies have shown that dogs who are trained using punishment methods show more signs of anxiety and poor welfare [13], and are more likely to develop aggression or other problematic behaviours [14].

Reward-based training is based on the simple premise that dogs will increase behaviours that result in good things (i.e. rewards or reinforcers), and behaviours that don’t result in a reward will decrease. This type of training is not only effective but is also enjoyable for your dog and helps to build a strong pet-owner relationship. Despite its simplicity, reward-based training can take time and experience to master if you haven’t used it before. It can be helpful to work with an experienced trainer or behaviourist at the beginning, particularly if you are trying to modify established behaviours. Check with your potential trainer whether they only use reward-based methods. Most trainers will allow new students to attend a class which will give you an opportunity to see what methods and equipment are used to help you decide which trainer to use. As punishment-based training can have long-term detrimental impacts on your dog, and can make challenging behaviour worse, it is very worthwhile taking the time to find the right reward-based trainer in your area.

Reward-based training can be used to teach everyday behaviours such as recall (to come when called) and to lie down and can even be used to teach really complex behavioural sequences such as ‘freestyle dancing’! Most dogs are taught ‘sit’ as one of their first lessons, however greyhounds don’t generally find this to be an easy or natural position. Alternatives, such as a stationary ‘stand’ behaviour, will often be easier to teach and more comfortable for your hound. Dogs learn quickly if they are rewarded for the right behaviour, and you will be amazed at how this approach can also be used to stop undesirable behaviours such as jumping up. Providing consistent and predictable positive feedback to your greyhound will help them become more certain about how to behave and build their confidence.

The following videos are really helpful in showing how to teach your dog to ‘come’ when called, how to ‘go to bed’, and how to start with some trick training.

In the past, dog training was heavily influenced by ‘pack structure’ or ‘dominance’ theory, where some behaviours were considered to be challenges for pack leadership (see this relevant article by the Australian Veterinary Behaviour Interest Group within the Australian Veterinary Association). This theory has been debunked by scientific research because it doesn’t accurately reflect dog social structure or their relationships with people. Importantly, many of the training techniques that are used with pack theory are aversive and confrontational and can place owners in significant danger. Reward-based training is not only safer and more effective, it is more enjoyable for your dog which helps them learn better! For more information on the science of dog learning visit these articles on dog behaviour and reward-based dog training.

How can I help with my adopted greyhound’s behaviour?

Some problematic behaviours are very normal dog behaviours, such as mouthing, chewing, barking, digging, and jumping up. Greyhounds also have a tendency to collect things (‘caching’ behaviour). These behaviours aren’t a problem for the greyhound but may be annoying or unpleasant for their owner.

Other problematic behaviours can be founded in fear, anxiety and uncertainty, such as non-predation aggression, guarding, or self-directed behaviour (e.g. excessive licking of the skin). The likelihood of a dog showing these behaviours is influenced by their genetics as well as their individual life experiences, especially from when they are young, and whether they were well socialised. For many paddock-raised dogs who have never trained or raced, they can also be fearful when interacting with people.

If your greyhound is displaying an undesirable behaviour that could be a serious risk (e.g. aggression) or is increasing in severity or frequency, then it is time to ask for assistance from a veterinary behavioural specialist who uses reward-based approaches. They will do a medical assessment to ensure there is no underlying health issue for the problem. For example, excessive licking may be due to a skin allergy. The veterinary behaviourist will develop a tailormade humane behaviour modification program and can also advise on additional tools that may be helpful. For example, if your dog is extremely fearful and anxious, medication may help to calm them so that behavioural modification can be more effective.

Fear and anxiety can manifest in different ways. Please seek advice from a qualified veterinary behaviourist/certified applied animal behaviourist if your greyhound is showing signs of anxiety such as:

• Separation anxiety or distress
• Freezing on walks
• Sleep aggression (aggression associated with the dog being startled when they are woken suddenly from sleep)
• Resource guarding (aggression associated with food, toys or other objects)
• Strong fearful behaviour
• Difficulty in toilet training
• Growling, snapping or lunging at people
• Dog-directed aggression (with familiar and/or unfamiliar dogs)
• Destructive behaviour

For further information, this article may be useful.

Approaches for common behaviours

Toilet training

Many greyhounds haven’t had the opportunity to learn about toilet training. Therefore, your new greyhound may need some help to communicate when they need to go outside to toilet. Remember that they will make mistakes as they learn. This is normal, just like it is for a puppy being toilet trained. Most dogs will need to toilet after waking up or after eating, so be sure to give them the opportunity to go outside at these times. It is always a good idea to take them out last thing at night so that they, and you, can have a full night’s sleep. When taking them outside it is helpful to keep them on a leash so that they aren’t distracted and use a cue word just before they go so that they learn to associate the word with the action. You can give praise and a treat when they relieve themselves outside to help reinforce that this is the right behaviour in the right location. Be on the lookout for signals at other times that might indicate they need to go such as restlessness, sniffing around or standing at the door. The more consistent you are in giving them opportunities to toilet in the right place when they need to, the quicker they will learn. Being patient and clear in your guidance will help establish the required behaviour quickly.

Never punish your greyhound for toileting in the wrong area. This will delay learning, increase any negative feelings they may be experiencing, and can result in them hiding away in another part of the house when they need to go to the toilet. If an accident does occur, quickly remove the mess and take the dog outside, then clean the area with strong disinfectant (a non-ammonia type is recommended). During the learning process, it may be helpful to lay newspaper near the door so that if they can’t get out quickly, the mess can be easily cleaned.

If your greyhound is having difficulty with toilet training and has frequent accidents inside, it is advisable to seek veterinary advice as it may indicate anxiety, fear or a medical problem such as a urinary tract infection.

Mouthing and nipping

Mouthing is a common way for a dog to explore their environment and exercise their teeth and jaws. It is also fun for them as it is part of normal play behaviour between dogs. A simple and effective way to change mouthing is to re-direct this behaviour onto an acceptable option such as a toy. Calmly keep your hands away from their mouth and entice them with a chewy or tug toy. You can reward them for the desired behaviour (mouthing the toy) by continuing the play session. If they mouth you, simply interrupt the play momentarily until they have calmed, then offer the toy so the play can continue. Mouthing behaviour can also be caused by anxiety so if the behaviour is excessive, concerning or persistent, please seek advice from a qualified veterinary behaviourist/ certified applied animal behaviourist who uses reward-based training.

Chewing

As with mouthing, chewing is a common and fun way for a dog to explore a new environment and exercise their teeth and jaws. Chewing is normal dog behaviour and dogs should be encouraged to chew appropriate objects like chew toys. When the focus of your dog’s chewing is something problematic (like your best shoes!), you can redirect this behaviour with more suitable items and prevent access to anything precious.

For more information on chewing in dogs, please see this article.

Digging

Digging is another very natural and normal dog behaviour that can be annoying for owners. Some dogs like to dig a lot and other dogs don’t dig at all. If your dog loves to dig and this is causing some issues, this behaviour can be re-directed to a more appropriate area such as a deep sand pit. Ensure the sand is safe for dogs (e.g. play sand not construction sand). To entice interest in the digging area you can hide some toys for them to find, play a digging game with them, or try lightly wetting the surface. The aim is to make digging in the sandpit enjoyable enough that they find it rewarding and want to dig there again. You can also train them by rewarding them when they dig in the right place. Until they have shifted their attention to the new digging area, you may decide to prevent access to vulnerable or valuable areas in the garden to limit damage.

For more information on digging in dogs, this article may be useful.

Barking

Barking is a very natural and normal form of dog communication, which is used across many different contexts. However, excessive barking can be problematic and distressing. Greyhounds do not typically bark excessively but as each dog is an individual this won’t necessarily be true for all greyhounds. If your greyhound is barking excessively, it is very important to determine the underlying cause of the barking, so it can be addressed. Common reasons for barking include boredom, excitement, distress, territorial defence, fear, and anxiety. While barking is common in dogs, excessive barking can be a complex issue to address therefore we recommend that you speak to a qualified veterinary behaviourist/certified applied animal behaviourist who can provide tailored advice. They can help to determine the underlying cause of the barking and develop a humane treatment plan for your dog.

For more information on barking in dogs, please see ‘this article on ‘excessive’ barking’.

Leash reactivity

When they are on leash, dogs will sometimes react to other dogs with lunging, barking, and growling. This behaviour can be related to fear or anxiety, predation aggression, or both. If your greyhound is showing leash reactivity, it is essential to determine the cause, as each cause needs a different management approach. You should seek advice from a qualified veterinary behaviourist/certified applied animal behaviourist who uses reward-based training.

Object collecting

An interesting quirky behaviour of some greyhounds is the collecting of various items such as shoes, soft toys, socks, pillows etc. Usually, they don’t chew or destroy these things but they can quickly amass quite a large collection! This behaviour is a form of caching and it likely provides some comfort for the greyhound and a sense of control over objects that are of value to them. If the caching is not harmful or destructive, it shouldn’t be discouraged or be of undue concern. Manage it by keeping precious items out of reach. It is important that you don’t chastise or punish your dog for collecting as they may start to show guarding behaviour over the objects.
chloe greyhound

For more information on owning a greyhound, also see our Greyhound adoption booklet.

Technical note:- the word punishment as described in this article refers to ‘positive punishment’. Scientifically, the ‘positive’ term means something is being applied (not that something that is pleasant or enjoyable). The ‘punishment’ term means the behaviour is weakened/lessened. This should not be confused for ‘negative punishment’ which is when something is taken away (‘negative’) to weaken a behaviour (‘punishment’). Both terms are used throughout the scientific literature but they are different in terms of learning processes and the impact on animal welfare.